The P1000 code is different than many other trouble codes you’ll see. Firstly, it’s a manufacturer-specific trouble code. Unlike generic codes, it means different things for different vehicles.
The most common meaning assigned to the P1000 code is an incomplete system diagnosis. It is typically associated with Fords and Jaguars, though there are a couple of other brands that use this meaning.
P1000 is fairly common in Fords. Thankfully, it is also very minor and easily corrected. In most cases, you won’t even need to make any repairs. Read on below to learn more about the causes of and fixes for this trouble code.
P1000 code definition
P1000 Ford code definition: On-board diagnostic system readiness test not complete
P1000 Jaguar code definition: On-board diagnostic system readiness test not complete
What does P1000 mean?
P1000 is triggered in Fords and Jaguars when the PCM fails to complete a full diagnosis cycle. The on-board diagnostic (OBD) monitors scan your car during the drive cycle to check for trouble codes. When one of the monitors fails to complete a diagnostic, the P1000 code is stored.
There are several things that can cause an interrupted diagnostic, including loss of power to the PCM. It’s especially common to see this code after your car receives a tow because you ran out of gas or your battery died.
You can’t usually expect an OBD2 trouble code to go away on its own. P1000 is the exception to that rule most of the time. If your check engine light ever illuminates after a jump then turns itself off before you get home, it’s probably a P1000.
What are the symptoms of the P1000 code?
Since the P1000 code indicates a problem with the diagnosis rather than the vehicle, there are no associated drivability issues. The only symptom you’ll see is the activation of the check engine light.
What are the causes of P1000?
- Disconnected battery,
- PCM is disconnected,
- Clearing the diagnostic trouble codes,
- The vehicle is factory new,
- OBD monitor concern during drive cycle (more common in Fords.)
How serious is the P1000 code?
The P1000 code is of very low severity. You can safely drive your vehicle while it’s illuminated without risking the health of either the driver or the engine.
How to diagnose the P1000 code
Tools you’ll need:
- OBD2 scan tool
- Screwdriver or socket set (for connections/battery hook-ups)
- If it’s a brand new car, drive it for a little while before taking any other steps. The code will likely clear on its own in a day or two.
- Scan your vehicle using an OBD2 scan tool. If any other trouble codes come up, fix those first.
- Check that the cables are firmly connected to your battery terminals. The red (positive, +) terminal should always be attached before the black (negative, -) terminal. If the positive terminal is loose or disconnected, remove the negative cable before reconnecting it.
- Locate your powertrain control module (PCM) using your vehicle’s manual. Inspect all the connections around it and make sure nothing is disconnected. If you see any frayed or broken wires, replace them.
- Run a diagnostic using an OBD2 scan tool. Check and record the freeze frame and live data to make sure all your OBD2 monitors are reporting.
Common mistakes to avoid while diagnosing the P1000 code
Don’t forget that this is a manufacturer-specific OBD2 code. Make sure you’re reading the correct definition for your vehicle. While many definitions of the P1000 code are similar, they can relate to other systems for certain manufacturers.
What should you do to fix the code P1000?
You don’t need to use an OBD2 scanner to clear the P1000 code. It will go away on its own once your system is able to complete a full diagnostic cycle. For most people, the simplest fix is to just drive your car for a little while. Eventually, the P1000 code will probably go away on its own.
If the code persists after a couple of days (or you just want to clear it up faster), running a drive cycle should do the trick. The process is basically the same for all makes and models, though you can check your vehicle’s manual for specific instructions.
Extremely hot or cold weather can alter your engine’s performance, reducing the data’s accuracy from the drive cycle test. This doesn’t matter if you’re just doing it to clear the P1000 code. If you want to diagnose engine problems fully, conduct the test in a garage if the outdoor temperature is below 32°F or above 90°F.
To perform a basic drive cycle:
- Prepare your car. A gas tank that’s between ¼ and ¾ full is ideal. A strong battery is also key to completing the drive cycle. Leave the car to sit for at least 8 hours to ensure the engine is at the same temperature as the surrounding air.
- Start the car and allow it to idle for 2-3 minutes. Check the operation of the heater, defrosters, and headlights.
- Drive at around 25 mph for 15-20 minutes. In the course of your drive, push the engine up to around 40 mph once or twice before slowing to a complete stop. Suburban streets are often ideal for this.
- After you’ve driven for a few miles, find a highway or freeway where you can reach and maintain a speed of 55-60 mph. Drive at this speed for at least 5 miles, as consistently as you’re able. Activating cruise control is ideal if you have the option.
- Exit the freeway, allowing your car to coast and gradually lose speed as much as possible. If you have a manual transmission, avoid shifting gears as long as you can.
- Repeat step 3 for another 15-20 minutes. When you’ve finished, park and allow your vehicle to idle for 1-2 minutes before turning it off.
Tips to avoid P1000 in the future
The most common cause of the P1000 code is a weak, undercharged, or dead battery. Some diagnostic tests won’t run if the battery power is below a certain level. Keep track of your battery’s age and test it regularly once it’s passed the 5-year mark.